If vintage and pre-owned watches are your passion, you may be pretty good at recognizing the real deal when it comes along. However, the growing problem on the market is the increasing number of fake vintage watches that look remarkably faithful to the original. So, while you are convinced the money you are about to give for an addition to your collection will be well-spent, you might be gravely mistaken.

In this article, a trusted vintage watches San Diego seller has laid out practical advice on how to rule out the fakes. The simplest way is to buy your pre-owned watch from Leo Hamel’s, since we guarantee its authenticity. But if you are considering buying a watch off the street or online, here are some tips for not getting ripped off.

Know the Real Deal First

How will you know what the real thing feels like if you’ve never actually seen it? One way to do this is to do a thorough research. Search for that model on the internet and read the specifications. Browse through the record databases of auction houses online. If you live in or near San Diego, you can visit Leo Hamel’s showroom and take a close look at the watch you wish to buy.

What to Look Out For

Here are some things that you should pay attention to when deciding whether to make the purchase:

Material –If you are shopping for a gold vintage watch, don’t forget that genuine gold is stamped to indicate the karat of the gold (18k or 750, 14k or 585, etc.). Platinum and stainless steel are similarly hallmarked. You should also pay attention to construction details such as how well the metal is finished.

Weight – Counterfeit watches are usually lighter because they are made of cheaper material. However, if the fake was skillfully made, there might be only a small difference in weight, in which case a professional evaluation is in order.

Typeface and Engravings – Spelling mistakes in the typeface or engraving used to be a clear tell-tale sign that a watch is counterfeit. Even though the ‘’fake’’ market has since become infinitely more sophisticated, it’s good to know that the engravings on genuine pieces are sharper than on counterfeit ones.

Serial Numbers – Most fine watches bear unique serial numbers engraved somewhere on the watchcase. Sometimes they can be found on the back of the case, but sometimes they’re underneath the bracelet where it attaches to the case, and the bracelet must be removed to view the serial number.

Our experts can easily remove the bracelet or strap without doing any damage to the case. For some watch lines, you can search the serial number and get information about the model and age of the watch that matches that number.

The Most Reliable Tell-Tale Signs

No matter how good you are at recognizing fakes, you mustn’t forget how developed the counterfeit market has become. Therefore, to be absolutely sure you are buying an original, these are the essential things to check:

Movement – Experts agree that the only way to be sure is to open up the back of the watch and inspect the movement. The makers of counterfeit watches may have become quite adept at copying cases and straps but not the exact internal mechanism of the original. If you’re not well versed in watch movements, it’s best to bring the watch to your trusted vintage watch expert for an evaluation. The watch will also need to be professionally resealed to ensure it remains watertight.

Sound – This is directly connected with the movement. If the watch you are intending to buy ticks loudly, you can be sure it’s a fake. Most luxury watches have automatic movements that don’t tick loudly. Even those with quartz movements have sophisticated mechanisms that don’t make a loud ticking sound.

Additional Things to Note

The movement and serial number should match the model of the watch – When our expert watchmaker opens the watch to view the movement, he will verify that the movement matches what belongs in that model of watch. Typically, the name of the brand is displayed on the top plate of the automatic rotor and inside the case back.

If there is a jewel count listed on the dial or case back, it should match the number of jewels in the movement. If the top plate was swapped with a generic one during a past repair, it can lower the value of the watch. While this doesn’t mean the watch is a fake, you can no longer say that it’s 100% authentic.

Use a reliable resource to check the movement for different brands and periods – These days, you can’t be too careful. While regular search in Google may give you some results, you should try consulting a specialized resource such as the rannft.de database (available in English).There you can check if the watch you are about to buy has the movement mechanism specific not only for the brand but also for the period when the watch was made. If it matches, chances are better that it’s a genuine watch.

Don’t buy unless you SEE the movement mechanism – This also applies if you buy online. You should always ask for pictures of the inside of the watch. Watch out for red flags – if the seller doesn’t want to go through the additional trouble of showing you the movement mechanism, they probably have something to hide.

And remember, pictures don’t tell you everything. The only way to 100% safely evaluate a watch movement is with the watch in hand. Make sure you are given time to evaluate the watch personally and can return it if it doesn’t pass muster.

Vintage Watches San Diego

The best way to buy a genuine pre-owned Swiss or German watch is to buy it from the expert’s at Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers. We’ve been buying and selling new and pre-owned watches in San Diego since 1980 and we guarantee the authenticity of every watch that we sell.

If you are seeking expert evaluation of a watch that you intend to buy off the street or online, Leo Hamel’s is where you’ll find help in verifying that you are buying the genuine article. Our long tradition of outstanding service, the expertise of our staff and the unwavering commitment to excellence are what sets us apart.

We boast an enviable and ever-changing offering of pre-owned watches – browse through our catalog and sort the pieces according to price, movement, brand, or other criteria. Or just stop by our store on San Diego Avenue – we will be happy to help you select the perfect watch! And remember, if we don’t have it in stock, we will search our global network of contacts to find it for you.