Jewelry trends are cyclical; everything old eventually becomes new and cool again. So what’s one style of jewelry that has recently been making a comeback? Cameos. Cameo jewelry is elegant and iconic. But with rising popularity comes an increase in imitation pieces. Nowadays, imitations are more realistic than ever before. Oftentimes, it can be difficult to tell the difference between an authentic antique cameo and a modern day imitation. To help you, we’re sharing some simple tips for authentication when searching for cameo jewelry.

What is cameo jewelry?

A cameo is a piece of shell, coral, or gemstone that is often hand-carved with a design or figure that is raised above the background layer. Other cameos are hand-painted miniature works of art. Cameos often depict a profile of a face, nature, animals,or mythological creatures. These carvings or paintings are then set in gold or silver to wear as a pendant, ring or pin. You can even find a matched cameo set for earrings. Costume jewelry cameos can be found, but these are much cheaper imitations. These are not hand-carved, are molded out of plastic, glass, or resin, and are set in base metals. Base metals (copper, nickel, and zinc) don’t have the value of precious metals (gold, platinum, and silver). Imitation cameos are not worth a lot of money, as opposed to authentic antiques, which can cost anywhere from hundreds to thousands of dollars. The cost of an authentic cameo varies depending on the intricacy of the carving or painting, the gemstone or substance it was carved from, and the quality of the jewelry setting.

How to identify an authentic cameo

While imitation cameos may look real there are key differences that set them apart from authentic pieces. Don’t let your eyes deceive you. If you’re in the market for cameo jewelry or are questioning a piece you currently own, try these simple tips to test for authenticity.

General Identification:

1. Know your materials- authentic carved cameos are made from natural materials, such as shell, agate, onyx, ivory, coral, mother-of-pearl, and various gemstones. Authentic painted cameos are typically made from porcelain. If the cameo in question is made from plastic or resin it is a fake.
2. Closely examine for cracks- authentic cameos should have no visible chips or cracks in the foundation material. While an authentic antique cameo may have been damaged after years of wear and tear, shell, stone, and porcelain are more durable than plastic, so any cracks or crazing should not be noticeable to the naked eye.
3. Pay attention to the direction of the face- the figure on the majority of antique cameos will face right. However, many cameos are leftward facing or facing forward. The direction of the figure alone is not a definite indication of authenticity, but if you’re already questioning a piece this little clue can help give a bit more insight.
4. Details, details, details- if you have an authentic cameo the high quality of the carving will be noticeable right off the bat. Cameo jewelers paid close attention to every bit of fine detail by including textured hair and loose curls, flowers, even adding jewelry on female portraits. Some of the design styles are actually good indicators of the era from which the cameo was originally made, helping to distinguish its authenticity.

Key details to look for include:

• Portrait cameos that feature a straight nose are typically from the Victorian era.
• Portraits that feature a strong, “Roman” nose were made before the 1860s.
• Mythology scenes usually date from the 18^th century to the early 20^th
• A portrait with a cute, button-like nose usually indicates a newer cameo made in the 21^st More modern facial features typically mean the cameo is not authentic.

If the cameo in question is a brooch, pay close attention to the pin on its back. An antique cameo should have a “c-clasp,” which means the brooch pin loops under a crescent shaped piece of metal to hold it in place. Since authentic cameos are set in gold or silver, you should always check the setting for a hallmark that indicates the kind of precious metal used (14K, 925, 999, etc.).

Authentic vs. fake cameo qualities

1. Note the finish- the way a cameo reflects light is also a good indication of authenticity. A shell or stone cameo will have a matte appearance while an imitation will have a glossy one. If your cameo shines in the light that is usually a sign it is not authentic.
2. Examine the back- hold the cameo face down and run your finger up and down the back. If the cameo is made from shell you should feel a concave or curve. The curve might be slight, but this is a good sign the cameo was carved from real shell. Plastic cameos will have a flat surface.
3. Check for carving marks- if you inspect the front of a cameo with a magnifying glass or jeweler’s loupe you may be able to see faint carving marks around the figure. These are little indentations made from the carving tool, indicating the piece was hand carved. Plastic cameos are typically carved with lasers so they have a more uniform, smooth look.
4. Difference in design- many plastic cameos have the same exact face or figure carved in them. Antique hand-carved cameos have much more variety and originality to them. A quick Google image search will help you familiarize yourself with the different styles.

Ask a reputable jeweler

If you’re still unsure if a cameo is authentic, have the jewelry in question evaluated by a reputable jeweler, like Leo Hamel Jewelry & Gold Buyers! This is the only foolproof way of determining the authenticity of cameo jewelry. Our expert gemologists will examine your cameo right in front of you and give you as much information as possible, all free of charge. Visit one of our jewelry buying locations in San Diego County to help verify the worth of your cameo jewelry; no appointment is necessary. You never know…you might just have a special treasure in your hands!